Monday, July 26, 2010

Lost, and Lamented, San Francisco Places

Every generation in every city, mourns the loss of the places of our youth that had become the essentials of our childhood memories. I am now "mid-century"... a term used to describe me, aluminum xmas trees and Doelger houses. I have seen so many things that seemed like "essential San Francisco" torn down, closed-up or remuddled. My parents probably would have their own list, and their parents would have such a list, without question. This is a living city and thus, is dynamic and in flux. Somethings that have disappeared are for the better and their loss is truly progress. So ...how much can we lose and still be the undiluted San Francisco? Should any native San Franciscans be reading this- test out my list with your own. Should visitors to our city be checking in, perhaps it will allow you to appreciate what has survived even more.

Gone- and Lamented:

The Montgomery Block- One of the city's most historic buildings... a haunt of Mark Twain and Oscar Wilde... where they made Pisco Punch (let's talk about what that is!). I actually like the Pyramid that replaced it. Just too bad it couldn't have been placed elsewhere.

The City of Paris- OK they did keep and restore the gorgeous rotunda- but that is the only thing good about the new Nieman Marcus that replaced the venerable COP. Sorry Mr. Johnson.

Fun House at Playland at the Beach. Playland was getting a bit tattered and dangerous- but this fun house was the best. Laughing Sal (now at the Wharf), the slide (awesome!), the barrel, the spinning disk, the compressed air blasts, house of mirrors, and undulating walkways. Santa Cruz funhouse is cool - but a second best!

Bernstein's Fish Grotto- This restaurant on Powell Street near O'Farrell had an old ship prow that jutted out into the street. As a kid I thought it was the coolest place to eat. The ship still exists! I saw it in the basement of Frank Lembi's, Hotel Union Square, across the street.

The Fox Theater on Market. What were we thinking when we allowed this to be torn down for a hideous 60's tower. I remember seeing "The Greatest Show on Earth" here with my Nana just before it was torn down.

The Compass Rose at the St. Francis- a recent loss. This was the perfect place to come for a drink after shopping or after theater. It was a place that children were taken during the holidays while out looking at the lights. Formerly a mix of elegant Asian and English decor. It is now just a bland space filled by a very fine and expensive restaurant.

The Old Ferries- I barely remember these. My Nana took my brother and I on one of the last runs across the Bay. Ironically, ferries are back on the bay in force- though not quite the same.

The Belli Buildings- were so important they were among the first buildings in SF deemed 'landmark'. They had both historical and architectural significance. Famed attorney, Melvin Belli's last wife apparently didn't think so. In defiance of preservation and historical groups she ripped off the roofs (reportedly to begin preservation) then let them go derelict. She outwitted everyone and basically demolished all but the facades.

The Western Addition- In the 1960's hundreds of blocks of Victorians were demolished to make way for progress. The black community in San Francisco was largely ousted. Hideous replacements were erected before the insanity was haulted. When people see the remaining Victorians that have been restored today, it is hard to believe that we threw away so much perfectly good, and uniquely San Franciscan, housing.

The Tonga Room- Just recently on the chopping block. Yes it is a bit goofy... rainstorms, a band on a raft floating in a swimming pool lagoon- but it was fun and so well-done! I am not sure if the battle is over yet.

The Carnelian Room- Great views, Ok food, private dining rooms... and lots of prom memories. Just closed.

Jacks- Along with the Tadish Grill, counted as the oldest San Francisco restaurant dating back to the Gold Rush.

Sutro Baths- This is the first place I went ice skating. My grandfather probably swam here. It was Victorian at it's height... hothouse, pools, museum, ice rink (in later years) and stairs, stairs, stairs! It burned just as they were tearing it down. Do I remember a mummy?

Doggie Diners- OK, just a run of the mill hot dog/hamburger chain... except for the giant fiberglass dachshund heads with chef's hats on.

The Arcade Passageway at the old Emporium: Parallel with the sidewalk, there used to be a covered arcade passageway at the old Emporium. It was closed-up many years ago before the Westerfield Center morph. It was the perfect place to display all the wonderful Christmas decorations of the 50's. Though not a perfect re-do, I am thrilled developers saved the facade and the dome of the old Emporium.

St. Mary's Cathedral on Van Ness and St Paulus on Eddy: both grand and gorgeous. Both survived the big fire of 1906, but they eventually succumbed to flames in the late 20th century.

Good Riddance!:
The Embarcadero Freeway- What were they thinking when they put this up? God knew what He was doing when he shook it down, (weakened it so it had to be torn down, actually), in the Loma Prietta earthquake in 1989! When it was built it completely shut the city off from the beautiful waterfront. It could have been worse. the original plan was to have the entire city encircled with freeways.

The Ferry Building (before it's current and glorious renovation)- Through most of my 50+ life, the Ferry Building was to be appreciated only from the outside. It was completely an underutilized gem. There was a dreary club, the World Trade Center, (I believe it was called), which filled much of the interior. Three cheers to those who designed this sensative and imaginative renovation!

The "Pink Palace" and much of the substandard 60's housing. After tearing down hundreds of homes in the Western Addition, unsightly, oftentimes dangerous, and substandard public housing was erected. Most of it didn't last 35 years and has since been torn down.

Honorable mention of some of our greatest victories: All the remaining Victorian homes, the Museum of Modern Art, the restored Conservatory of Flowers, 31 Alta Street (wow! great renovation of a rare 1850's home), Casebolt Mansion, Fisk mansion, 813 Grove, 824 Grove, 722 Steiner (owners all get a prize for good stewardship!), the Windmills at the Beach (in progress), The Beach Chalet, Hyde Street Pier, Maritime Museum restoration, City Hall retrofit and restoration, Geary and Orpheum theater restorations, Old St. Mary's retrofit, the Palace Hotel, (better than ever), Mission Dolores, Notre Dame de Victoire church retrofit,

Sorry, we will have to live with these for awhile: The new DeYoung Museum (looks like an airport), The Cal Pacific Medical Center (Pac. Heights and Davies Campuses), the Fontana East and West, The Summit and all other 60's buildings out of scale for their neighborhoods and which block so much light and the views to the bay. The Vallencort (sp?) fountain argh!), the new State building (love the green thing but god awful ugly!), ,

These could go either way: The Japan Center, The proposed Fairmont condo tower, The timeshares at Ghirardelli Square, the old Jack Tarr Hotel (ugly before- now with lot's of potential to go either way), the Mission/Octavia corridor, the old U.C. extension (at Haight/Laguna), the Nightingale House at 201 Buchanan, Julius' Castle, the Payne Mansion.

Posted by George

http://www.sfgoldenbear.net/

This Native San Franciscan's 7 favorite places to picnic.

First start by getting amazing things to pack in your basket. I suggest going to Molinari's on Columbus in North Beach. While in the neighborhood pick up some fresh foccacia bread at Liguria Bakery (Stockton and Filbert). This should get you started!

1. Sutro Park- the bluffs above the Cliffhouse has some of the most extraordinary ocean views in town. Bring warm clothes just in case.

2. The waterfall at Stowe Lake or next to the rough stone bridge a few yards away. It is so peaceful here. The lake is filled with a variety of wild birds and hundreds of turtles.
For years we have enjoyed picnics floating around the lake in a rented row boat.

3. The Portals of the Past in Golden Gate Park. The doorway to the former Towne mansion is the city's sole monument to those who survived the 1906 earthquake and fire. It sits on the far shore of the lake like a temple. A melancholly, yet lovely, reminder of old San Francisco.

4. Washington Square Park in North Beach. The park is full of views, activity and life. Not as serene as the above settings- but you will certainly know you are in the heart of San Francisco. Just blocks from Golden Bear!

5. Fort Mason- the bluffs above the bay have sheltering trees and expansive lawns. The view out the Golden Gate is breathtaking.

6. Any sunny place you can find on the path between Land's end (near the Cliff House) and the Legion of Honor at Lincoln Park. As has been mentioned in an earlier blog- this part of San Francisco is little known- even to natives. It is breathtaking. Find a sunny sheltered spot and pretend you are in Carmel/Point Lobos.

7. The east side of Alamo Square. The east side of the park is far more protected from wind then the west. It also enjoys the view of the famous "Painted Ladies of Postcard Row" (aka: 7 Sisters).
This view is iconic San Francisco, with the park, the old city in the foreground and the towering skyscrapers of the new city as a backdrop. Pick out the spot where the cast of the long-running TV series, "Full House" had it's opening credits picnic. Guests at Golden Bear often cap off their picnic with a glass of wine with their hosts inside one of these famous homes.

Posted by George

http://www.sfgoldenbear.net/

A Native San Franciscan's 10 Favorite Places to Visit that are FREE and Off the Beaten Path

1. Hike from Coit Tower down the Greenwich Steps to Montgomery Street. Make a right and walk up the lower part of Montgomery to Alta Street. At #31 appreciate this beautifully restored Gold Rush Era home. Walk back toward the Filbert steps and don't miss the beautiful art deco building (featured in Bogart and Bacall's film noire classic, "Dark Passage". Look up- Bogart is peering out the window as he did in the film!). Take the Filbert Steps through the Grace Marchant Gardens "I don't think we are in Kansas anymore" is a quote that rings true here! At Napier Lane walk down San Francisco's last wooden street. Be quiet and respectful- people live here. Walk all the way down to Sansome and the Levi Plaza. If you are really energetic make a left and head back up the Greenwich steps - you will pass all of the wild parrots of Telegraph Hill.

2. Catch a Sunday Free concert at Sigmund Stern Grove. 19th and Sloat. Sundays 2PM. Check earlier blog for schedule and website.

3. Pace through the labrynth in Grace Cathedral. It is a gorgeous setting and the process can be truly "centering". California and Taylor Streets.

4. Walk down Stockton Street (from Washington Square) for a taste of the real and untouristy Chinatown. Though it can be a bit shocking, it is always fascinating. Turn down Washington Street and make a left down Ross Alley to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company (Fortune cookies are a SF invention!). Retrace your steps to Washington Street and cross over to Waverly Lane... the site of many bloody Tong Wars in the 19th cenury. Mid-block on the right is a sign that says Tin How Temple. Take the stairs to the very top and experience one of the oldest Buddhist temples in North America.

5. Go to the Industrial Light and Magic campus in the Presidio. The Yoda fountain is charming and inside the lobby are some wonderful "Star Wars" memorabilia.

6. Walk from the Cliff House at Land's End to the Legion of Honor museum in Lincoln Park. The waves and the cliffs are breathtaking. It is hard to believe you are within the city boundaries of San Francisco. No joking aside, a healthy respect for the cliff's edge is recommended.

7. Take a stroll through the Gold Rush era Barbary Coast in Jackson Square. Walk down Jackson Street from Montgomery. The buildings on the left sit on the shore of the original bay cove (1850's). Look to your right and the buildings are built on fill (1860s). On Hotalling Alley, the original bay shore is represented by the wavey pavement. The cast iron facade of the building on the SE corner is the Hotalling whisky warehouse that was saved, because of it's treasured contents, from the fire in 1906. There was a saying at the time that said SF was punished by fire for being wicked. The plaque on the building pokes at this notion saying (roughly) "If God spanked the town for being over-frisky, why did He burn the churches down and save Hotaling's whiskey?"! Also in the area: The Old Ship Saloon (notorious for shanghaing sailors- built over a sunken ship, as were most of the buildings in the whole area), the original Ghirardelli Building, (Jackson near Sansome), the Firehouse on Pacific (near Sansome) and the old Hippodrome Dancehall (looks like it might have back in the Wild West) on Pacific near Kearney. San Francisco really blew it when it allowed the fabulous Belli buildings at Montgomery near Jackson, to be, (all but), torn down. Mark Twain, Oscar Wilde and Melvin Belli were associated with these wonderful buildings.

8. Free Band Concerts at the Spreckles Bandshell in Golden Gate Park. Sundays from 1PM. to about 2:45. June through late September. The artists vary from the City band to a wide variety of guest artists. There is just something pleasing and timeless about sitting in the park and hearing a live orchestra! www.goldengateparkband.org Check for scheduling.

9. Fly a kite on the Marina Green. This patch of grass between Marina Blvd and the Bay is one of the best places to people-watch. Joggers, volleyball players, picnics, sunbathers, dogs... and kites- of all kinds make for a pleasant day against the backdrop of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz.

10.At Golden Bear Inns and rentals: Complimentary wine or ice tea on the rooftop deck overlooking the bay, Alcatraz, the crookedest street- Lombard, the Golden Gate Bridge, Russian and Nob Hills, Saints Peter and Paul Church, Coit Tower and Grace Cathedral. If the weather is too chilly - complimentary wine inside one of the "Painted Ladies of Postcard Row" on Alamo Square.

These and other suggestions are available from your hosts at Golden Bear Inns and Apartment Rentals.

Posted by George

http://www.sfgoldenbear.net/

Mt. Diablo Jazz Festival Features Powerhouse Headliners.

Saturday August 14th - Book tickets now to see legends George Benson, Natalie Cole, Tower of Power, Brian Culbertson and Lucy Woodward. Tickets on Sale Now at www.livenation.com or call 1-800-745-3000. Show is at the Pavillion at Concord.

GoldenBear guests - take BART (subway) to this nearby event.

Posted by George

www.sfgoldenbear.net

San Francisco Symphony 2010-2011 tickets on Sale now! Tickets start at $15.

Michael Tilson Thomas at the baton. Guest artists from Jessye Norman, Rufus Wainwright to Itzhak Perlman and Lang Lang. How about Beethoven's Missa Solemnis and Orff's Carmina Burana for a teaser? Check website for more details. www.sfsymphony.org or call
415-864-6000.

Book a room at GoldenBear when you book your tickets. An arts weekend in San Francisco can be affordable!

Posted by George

www.sfgoldenbear.net

Comedy Club Lovers Alert! Tracy Morgan, Norm MacDonald, Goldthwait, Ralphie May coming soon.

GoldenBear vacation/corporate rentals, North Beach, is only blocks from San Francisco's premier comedy club... Cobb's. 915 Columbus @Lombard. Check the Cobb's website for dates and full listings of performances. www.cobbscomedy.com 415-928-4320
Hilarious!

Posted by George

www.sfgoldenbear.net

City Arts and Lectures Series- Patti Lupone, Nora Ephron, Supreme Court Justice, Stephen Breyer and many others.

The City Arts and Lectures Series kicks off it's 30th Anniversary of Cultural Studies lectures on September 16th with US Supreme Court Justice, Stephen Bryer. Lectures continue regularly until November 22nd with Nora Ephron. All lectures are at 8PM at the Herbst Theater in the Civic Center.

Check the website for a full listing of speakers.

www.cityarts.net

415-392-4400

Golden Bear properties are located within easy distance to Herbst Theater and the Civic Center.

Posted by George

www.sfgoldenbear.net